FROM KOKONTE TO PIZZA: HOW GHANAIANS FELL IN LOVE WITH FOREIGN FOODS AT THE EXPENSE OF OUR HERITAGE

 FROM KOKONTE TO PIZZA: HOW GHANAIANS FELL IN LOVE WITH FOREIGN FOODS AT THE EXPENSE OF OUR HERITAGE

By : Honeybrowne Okaakyire, B.Ed.

I, Honeybrowne, have always been fascinated by the way food tells the story of a people. Food is not just about filling the stomach; it’s about identity, history, and pride. Growing up in Ghana, I was blessed to eat some of the richest, most nutritious, and most satisfying traditional meals; kokonte with groundnut soup, ampesi with kontomire stew, banku with okro soup, ɛtɔ made with ripe plantain and palm oil, and the hearty mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ (yam porridge). These meals were more than food; they were a taste of home, a reminder of who we are.

But something has changed. Today, when I walk through Accra, Kumasi, or even small towns, I see more people queuing for pizza, shawarma, fried rice with chicken, spaghetti, burgers, cakes, pastries, and ice cream than for the dishes that built our ancestors’ strength. I remember when we were in school, students could queue for long hours, buying fried rice and chicken waiting to be served. Some were even buying with protocols because of the long queue. But the roadside kenkey seller was seated for hours, waiting for customers. Even at weddings and parties, the buffet is dominated by jollof with grilled chicken (which is still ours but heavily modified), pasta salads, Chinese fried rice, and barbecue wings. Meanwhile, the kokonte pot is gathering dust.

Why Did We Switch?

This shift did not happen overnight. Several factors have contributed to the love affair Ghanaians now have with foreign foods.

1. Perception of Modernity : Somewhere along the line, foreign foods became a status symbol. Eating pizza or holding a box of KFC chicken is sometimes seen as a sign of “class” or “exposure.” Meanwhile, ordering ɛtɔ or mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ in a fancy restaurant feels almost impossible because such dishes are rarely on the menu. We have, sadly, been made to think our traditional meals are too “local” for modern settings.

Scenario: I once attended a corporate meeting where lunch was served. On the menu were lasagna, chicken wraps, and pasta salad. Not a single Ghanaian dish was offered. When one colleague jokingly asked if we could have banku with okro, everyone laughed as if it was an absurd suggestion for a “classy” gathering. People looked at him for minutes as if he was the biblical man who betrayed Jesus Christ.

2. Urban Lifestyle Changes : Life in Ghana’s cities has become fast-paced. Foreign fast food outlets offer quick, ready-to-eat meals. You can grab a burger in five minutes, but cooking banku from scratch can take hours. Convenience has won over tradition for many busy workers and students.

Scenario: A university hostel in Accra recently surveyed its residents, and 8 out of 10 students admitted they eat more fried rice than any Ghanaian traditional meal during the semester, simply because it is faster to buy.

3. Global Influence Through Media : Movies, social media, and advertisements constantly push images of cakes, shakes, pizzas, and shawarma as trendy, exciting, and “cool.” Meanwhile, the storytelling around Ghanaian foods has been neglected. Our youth now grow up seeing spaghetti commercials more than plantain farmers in the media.

4. Changing Taste Preferences : Constant exposure to foreign flavors has made some Ghanaians crave less of the earthy, natural taste of traditional foods. Artificial seasonings and creamy sauces have replaced the natural flavors of kontomire, garden eggs, and smoked fish. I went to Nsawam market during one market day and I heard a certain lady, well dressed, presented saying she wanted a spice for kontomire stew, I thought she was joking, I drew closer to her and the seller because I wanted to satisfy my curiosity, the seller drew her basket, picked some spice for the lady and she paid for it and left, I saw and heard everything so when she left, I went to the same seller and told her I also wanted a spice for my kontomire stew. I was wowed to see it. I said to my inner-self, 'common kontomire stew too, people prepare it using spices"? Ah well. 

The Cost of Abandoning Our Traditional Foods

While trying to impress our taste buds with foreign meals, we have overlooked the consequences.

Nutritional Loss

Ghanaian foods like ampesi with kontomire are rich in fiber, iron, and vitamins. Kokonte is packed with energy and works wonders for digestion. Mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ gives natural carbohydrates and healthy fats. Foreign fast foods, while tasty, often contain excessive oils, sugar, and salt, spices, leading to obesity, diabetes, and heart problems but many people don't want to understand this. 

Statistic: According to a 2023 report by the Ghana Health Service, urban obesity rates have increased by 26% in the past decade, with heavy reliance on fast foods being one of the main contributing factors.

Economic Impact : Every time we choose shawarma over banku, we send more money to importers of foreign ingredients rather than supporting local farmers. When demand for yam, plantain, and cassava drops, so do the incomes of our farmers.

Cultural Erosion : Food is part of our culture. Losing our connection to traditional meals means losing the stories, festivals, and customs tied to them. Can you imagine Hogbetsotso, Aboakyer, or Odwira festivals without traditional food? It would be like removing the soul from the celebration.

Case Study: A Changing Wedding Menu

In 2015, I attended a wedding in Cape Coast where the menu was proudly Ghanaian— banku and okro soup, ɛtɔ, ampesi with palava sauce, and jollof rice. The food was served in clay bowls and calabashes, with live highlife music playing in the background. Guests left praising the event’s “true Ghanaian feel.” Is this not fantastic? I truly traditional menu settings.

Fast forward to 2024, I attended another wedding in the same family. This time, the menu had pizza, shawarma wraps, Chinese fried rice, spring rolls, and a dessert table filled with cupcakes and cheesecakes. There was only one small table for traditional food and it was the least visited by guess. When I asked the bride why, she said, “Most people prefer the foreign foods now; I didn’t want the buffet to look too local.”

This small example shows how quickly our preferences have shifted even in places where tradition used to be central.

Rediscovering Our Heritage Through Food

I believe it’s not too late. We can love both worlds; enjoy a slice of pizza once in a while but still make ɛtɔ a regular part of our diet. Here’s how:

1. Promote Traditional Foods in Modern Spaces : Our restaurants and hotels should boldly add kokonte, ampesi, mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ, and ɛtɔ to their menus, presenting them attractively and explaining their health benefits.

2. Tell the Story of Ghanaian Foods : Food bloggers, influencers, and chefs should share more about the origins, preparation, and unique flavors of Ghanaian dishes. If Italians can make the world love pizza, we can make the world love banku with tilapia too.

3. Teach the Next Generation : Parents should involve children in cooking traditional meals so they grow up appreciating their taste. Schools can organize “Ghanaian Food Days” to celebrate our rich culinary heritage.

4. Modernize Without Losing Authenticity : We can present ampesi in bite-sized gourmet styles, serve mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ with innovative plating, and make ɛtɔ the star of creative food festivals.

Why I Still Choose Ghanaian Food First : For me, Honeybrowne, nothing compares to the warm, comforting taste of kokonte with groundnut soup on a rainy afternoon, or the soft sweetness of ripe plantain ɛtɔ served with groundnuts or avocado. It’s not just food but it’s identity, it’s health, it’s love passed down through generations. I can enjoy a slice of pizza or a piece of cake, but they will never carry the memories, the cultural pride, or the nutritional value of Ghanaian meals.

Our grandparents built strong bodies and healthy communities on these foods. If we abandon them completely, we risk losing more than just taste; we lose a part of ourselves.

Conclusion: A Call to Return to Our Plates

Ghanaians, it’s time we rethink our choices. Foreign foods like pizza, shawarma, cake, burgers, and fried rice can be fun treats, but they should never replace the kokonte, ampesi, ɛtɔ, mpɔtɔmpɔtɔ, and banku that define our heritage. If we keep neglecting our own dishes, our children might grow up knowing more about cheese and pepperoni than kontomire and palm oil.

I, Honeybrowne Okaakyire, say let’s bring back the pride in our kitchens. Let’s fill our homes, parties, and restaurants with the rich aroma of Ghanaian foods. Because the day we lose our traditional meals is the day we lose a big slice of our Ghanaian soul for which no amount of pizza can replace that.